Toldbod Bodega is the traditional Danish restaurant that Copenhagen locals constantly direct their visiting friends to—even Noma chef-founder René Redzepi. “[T]he setting is like stepping back 70 years,” he told The Times for a 2014 city guide. “It’s a little time capsule of a restaurant that’s definitely worth a visit.”
Established in 1787, Toldbod Bodega proudly claims to be the oldest restaurant in the capital. Dimly lit dining rooms are accented with dark wood furniture, white tablecloths, and antiques from mosaic lamps to drippy baubled chandeliers, plus an eccentric collection of artworks, spanning abstract paintings to fine photography and posters of local intellectuals.
The menu showcases a wide spread of traditional Danish delights but favorites are known to be old-fashioned lunch rituals like sild og snaps (pickled herring and a strong, clear aquavit-like spirit) and smørrebrød. If the snaps is too heady, go for a pint of draft craft beer made at a local brewery.
A meal at Toldbod Bodega will set you back at least 200 DKK ($30)—not cheap for traditional Danish fare, but the setting can’t be beat. Though the service can be somewhat stern, it’s always attentive.
Know Before You Go
Toldbod Bodega is an especially popular destination during Christmas time with classics like sild og snaps known to be festively favored. In December, booking ahead is never a bad idea. The restaurant serves a special Yuletide menu, typically starting from November, with special family-beloved dishes like the nationalretten (the ‘national meal’ in English), stegt flæsk med persillesovs (fried pork with parsley sauce).
