The ritzy Ginza district of Tokyo is home to many cafés, some fancy, some vintage, many both. An iconic coffeehouse, the Café Paulista opened on Central Street in 1970, but its history goes back even further. In fact, it claims to be the oldest café in Japan.
In 1908, entrepreneur Ryō Mizuno oversaw the Japanese mass migration to Brazil, which supplied labor to the local coffee plantations. As a token of thanks, the state of São Paulo promised to send him tons of coffee beans gratis for three years, a contract that would be extended until 1923.
After founding the Café Paulista company in 1910, Mizuno opened the first of his coffeeshops in Osaka and Ginza the next year. While there were a few cafés already in Tokyo, the Paulista distinguished itself with its focus on coffee itself rather than snacks and alcoholic drinks.
The Paulista soon proved to be popular, frequented by such literary luminaries as Ryūnosuke Akutagawa, Raichō Hiratsuka, and Bunroku Shishi. It went on to open more locations across the country, and Albert Einstein is known to have visited the Hakata branch when he came to Japan.
Following the devastating earthquake of 1923 and the end of its contract with São Paulo, the Paulista closed all of its cafés and became a company specializing in coffee bean imports. It was not until 1970 that the Ginza branch was revived, though not located on the original site, but it didn’t take long until it became a popular spot again. A visit by John Lennon and Yoko Ono in 1978 brought it back in spotlight.
The café continues to brew coffee from organic beans farmed in Brazil, with several variations, and its menu is also popular for the quiches, sandwiches and cake. It may be the oldest in Tokyo, maybe not, depending on how you judge it, but either way it’s a must-visit to complete your day in Ginza.
